Anciano Valpenas 3 Rioja

Anciano is a private label project cooked up by British wine impresario Guy Anderson and brought to the States by the Well Oiled Wine company in DC. Thanks to his solid footprint across Spain, Portugal, and Argentina, Guy's superpower is finding terroir-driven wines that scream regional character while providing exceptional value. He partners with select family-run estates and Cooperatives that prioritize quality over quantity, bottling exclusive second labels for export markets such as the U.S. and U.K.

Rioja needs little or no introduction for many AWM customers; however, for this little jewel, in particular, some quick unpacking will help illustrate why it's quickly become a favorite best-buy. Tempranillo is the region's ubiquitous, vinous superstar, and the wide range of styles it delivers is quite remarkable. From bright, fruit-forward Joven and Roble to deeply nuanced and structured Reservas and Gran Reservas and everything in between, Rioja offers an expression of Tempranillo for practically every palate and price point.

Blending also plays a pivotal part in Rioja's winemaking. Garnacha, Graciano, and Mazuelo (Carignan) quite often play supporting roles, adding lift, spice, or structure depending on the vintage and the winemaker's fancy. While the vigneron's choice of varietals for the Cuvée is undoubtedly important, I find the most defining stylistic divide in Rioja is oak. The options are nearly endless--whether it's used, how much, what type, what toast, and for how long. Some vignerons lean all the way into the vanilla and spice of new American oak, while others steer clear and let the fruit do the driving.

Bodegas Criadores de Rioja is in the heart of Rioja Alta, just outside the village of Logroño. Family-owned and operated, the estate has roots that stretch back over a century, with a consistent focus on sustainable farming and traditional winemaking. Sitting at 300 to 500 meters, the family's vineyards benefit from the cool breezes and mixed soil structure typical of Rioja Alta's higher elevations, providing perfect conditions for the region's elegantly balanced reds.

Anciano No.3 Rioja Roble is a limited bottling made exclusively for a small circle of importers around the globe. Our connection comes through the Well Oiled Wine Company, a D.C.-based importer known for sniffing out these kinds of under-the-radar, best-buy gems. These happy collaborations are sometimes hard to ferret out, and we were delighted to land on this one.

What makes Anciano No.3 especially intriguing is its classification as a CVC, or "conjunto de varias cosechas." CVC indicates a multi-vintage blend—a practice permitted in Rioja, although you'll rarely see these wines outside of the region. It gives the vigneron a wide palette of flexibility to balance freshness with depth and structure and even allows them to include wine in the blend that has seen some oak aging.

In your glass, Anciano No.3 is an exercise in approachability. Aromas of wild berries, dark cherry, and a whisper of dried herbs lead into a silky, medium-bodied palate with just enough grip to keep things clean and interesting. There's a lovely touch of gentle spice, most likely from a small amount of barrel-aged wine added to the blend; however, it's a subtle nuance, more like a finishing seasoning than a sauce. Anciano No.3 is also perfectly at home with a quick chill, making it a pleasurable red to sip on a hot summer day.

Classic pairings, like grilled lamb chops, roasted chicken, or a simple tortilla española, are all no-brainers; however, No.3 also plays well with more inventive fare: think mushroom tacos with smoky salsa, lentil, and chorizo stew, or even a charred beet and goat cheese salad.