Boulon Moulin a Vent Cru
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Hammond and I love the wines of Beaujolais, and we feel they're some of the most wonderfully versatile and food-friendly wines you'll find in your glass. The real wines from the Beaujolais region, known as Cru Beaujolais, offer wine lovers an entirely different experience from the fruity and bubblegum-flavored Nouveau Beaujolais many people may remember. I'm happy to report that Cru Beaujolais delivers complexity and depth and represents a true reflection of Beaujolais's terrific terroir.
Historically overshadowed by Burgundy, its famous neighbor to the north, Beaujolais has long remained quietly exceptional. Although it's just a short drive south, the terroir shifts from limestone and marl in Burgundy to a mosaic of soil structure, with granite being the most prominent. Both regions share Chardonnay as their primary white grape, but when it comes to reds, this is where it's quite different. The limestone and marl soils of Burgundy are perfect for Pinot Noir, whereas the granitic soils of Beaujolais are great for Gamay.
Beaujolais is home to ten distinctly different Cru villages, each offering its own style and expression of Gamay. Morgon and Moulin-à-Vent produce robust, age-worthy reds, tipping towards the fuller end of medium-bodied, featuring notes of dark red fruit framed by whispers of subtle earth. As its name suggests, Fleurie delivers wines with floral aromas and elegant finesse, while Brouilly, Côte de Brouilly, and Chiroubles present lighter, brighter, focusing on lifted red fruits and very soft tannins.
The village of Corcelles-en-Beaujolais is a 30-minute drive south of the Mâcon and has been the Boulon family's home since the 1850s. Hugo and Ludvine Boulon are the seventh generation of the family to run the estate's holdings in the Beaujolais appellations of Morgon, Brouilly, and Moulin à Vent.
Since my first visit to Domaine Boulon, Hugo has been steadily adding to the estate's Cru vineyard property, and he's added some especially terrific old vine holdings in the Moulin-à-Vent Cru.
The Moulin-à-Vent Cru wasn't always known by its famously familiar name—the Cru's vinous history began as the Romanèche-Thorins appellation. In 1936, the Cru was renamed, taking on its current identity from the landmark 15th-century windmill that watches over its vineyards. Interestingly, this makes Moulin-à-Vent the only Beaujolais Cru not named after a specific village.
Today, more than 300 growers tend roughly 620 hectares, producing over 1.5 million bottles of Moulin-à-Vent appellated Gamay every harvest. Our friend Hugo Boulon farms a scant 2 hectares in historic Cru, so we consider ourselves lucky to receive a small allocation of his gorgeous garnet elixir every year.
In your glass, Domaine Boulon Moulin-à-Vent opens with pleasing aromas of black cherries, red raspberries, and subtle hints of earth and spice. The vibrant aromas of dark red fruit march effortlessly into the middle palate, framed by layers of crushed herbs, subtle minerality, and a gentle earthiness that lingers very nicely across the finish. I find there's just enough structure to keep every sip satisfying as you enjoy the depth and complexity of this gorgeous Gamay.
As you'd expect from any world-class Gamay, this Moulin-à-Vent is versatile enough to pair effortlessly with all the classics. Roast chicken simply seasoned with fresh herbs, grilled salmon, and pan-seared tuna steaks are top favorites. If you're feeling adventurous, enjoy a glass with Korean-spiced pork tacos, Hungarian Chicken Paprikash, savory mushroom risotto with a splash of truffle oil, or smoky eggplant creations like baba ganoush. You'll understand why Cru Beaujolais is considered one of the best food wines and remains the secret weapon of Soms worldwide.