Freire Lobo Dao Vigno Branco 23

Over the past couple of years, I've noticed that quite a few AWM customers are choosing Portugal as their holiday destination. Some even spend part of the year there, thanks to its warm and welcoming environment for remote work. While they often arrive with Port wine, that wonderfully sweet, ubiquitous dessert wine on their minds, they quickly discover that Portugal's wine scene is way more diverse and compelling than they imagined.

In addition to Port wine, Portugal is home to a remarkable array of high-quality, perfectly dry whites, pinks, and reds that deftly translate the country's unique terroirs and winemaking traditions. From the crisp, mineral-driven whites of Vinho Verde in the north to the bold, structured reds of the Douro Valley and the versatile, refreshing pinks produced throughout the country, I believe there's a wine for every palate and preference.

What truly sets Portugal apart — and where it gets really interesting — is that the country's wine production is entirely based on native grape varieties like Touriga Nacional, Arinto, Castelão, Baga, Alvarinho, Trincadeira, Encruzado, Loureiro, Fernão Pires, and Vinhão. These unique varietals are seldom found outside the country, providing Portuguese vignerons with the perfect vehicle to offer new and exciting vinous expressions you won't find anywhere else.

The best part is that Portuguese wines are also remarkably affordable and even their top-tier selections are super-easy on the wallet. Regions like Alentejo and Dão produce exceptional wines that regularly run rings around their more famous European neighbors, with quality-to-price ratios that are comparatively off the charts.

Elisa Freire Lobo is the owner and winemaker at Freire Lobo, a small winery in Oliveira do Hospital in north-central Portugal. Elisa began her career in wine with Alvaro Castro at Quinta de Pinhanços, one of Portugal's top wine-growing estates. While honing her craft with Alvaro Castro, Elisa began farming seven hectares of family-owned vineyards in the Dão.

Elisa took over her family's estate in 2010, becoming the first female winemaker in the region. She now owns vineyard parcels in the villages of Oliveira do Hospital and Gouveia, in the foothills of the Serra da Estrela mountains. As an unabashed traditionalist --most fruit is crushed by foot --- her mission is to produce wines that perfectly translate the true terroir of her family's estate and home village.

Since her main focus is in the vineyard, nothing is done in the winery to disturb the transition from vineyard to bottle. To ensure the best quality, she uses the region's traditional Guyot pruning method to get smaller yields of healthy fruit. She strictly avoids using chemical fertilizers and pesticides, instead employing a small army of sheep to keep the vineyards clean, fertilized, and free of pests. Fermentation occurs with indigenous yeast, and the wines are finished and bottled with minimal use of sulfur.

Freire Lobo Vigno Dão Branco
In your glass, this intriguing blend of 50% Encruzado, 20% Bical, and 20% Cercial, 5% Fernão Pires, and 5% offers super-vibrant aromas of citrus and tropical fruits framed by hints of basil and crushed white flowers. Depending on the serving temperature, I find this tasty white to be a bit of a chameleon. Right out of the fridge and into the glass, it presents the structure and zip of Sauvignon Blanc, accenting the salty-lemony notes. The texture fleshes out when it warms in the glass, reminding me more of Viognier. It's clean and fresh at any temperature and would be a terrific pair with poultry, seafood, and cool salads.